Tokaji (full name: Tokaj-Hegyalja), a “World Heritage Site”, is re-emerging as an important wine region back to its dominant position among wine lovers. The most complex sweet dessert wine in the world is produced here, a category on its own, as well as few of the best dry white wines of Hungary. Here your glass fills with elegant, refined white dry wine to accompany your delicious meal, and for dessert, a glass of the golden nectar from the enchantingly romantic underground cellars labyrinths. Welcome to Tokaji!

 

Viticulture Ancient History

Viniculture started in Hungary thousands of years ago during the Roman Empire as in most parts of Europe. In the 9th century, the Magyar tribes arrived in the area, traveling thousands of kilometers from the Ural Mountains, deep in Russia, bordering Asia. The Magyars brought not only their culture and tradition but also their language. They were farmers and cultivated the vines and produced wines, as part of their agricultural activities, just as their Hungarian descendants. 

 

Location & Climate

Tokaj area is located in the north-east part of Hungary, at the foot of the Carpathian Mountains, amid dormant volcanoes. It is the meeting place of the Bodrog River and the Tisza River.

 

The area is a small plateau of 450 meters above sea level, very fertile, protected by the surrounding mountains from the extreme continental weather, and enjoys the moderating effect of the rivers.

 

The humidity and mists from the rivers, combined with the mountains that block the winds, and with the warm sunny summers, are the perfect conditions for the Botrytis (the “noble rot”) fungus.

 

Tokaji - Worthless to Gold 

As it happens, the grape varieties that grow in the area are particularly susceptible to Botrytis, and Indeed, for centuries, grapes were infected by the Botrytis to the disappointment of the growers, who considered them worthless.

 

In the 15-16th centuries, growers were experimenting in an effort to produce wine from the infected grapes. They struck gold, or actually liquid gold. Tokaji-aszu, the first botrytized wine was born. Tokaji wine quickly became popular with the upper classes and its production was under the open eye of the monarchy.

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As the popularity of the Tokaji wine grew, and its prices soared, it became a valuable commodity. The Hungarian kings gave the top quality elixir wines as gifts to kings, popes and emperors in Europe, and sold the other wines all over Europe to finance their activities. One of the most famous phrases was coined by King Louis XV of France who called it: “Wine of Kings, King of Wines”. 

 

Succession of Disasters

Everything changed with the turn of the 19th century into the 20th. Disasters followed in rapid succession. It began when the vineyards were attacked by the phylloxera insects (like most of Europe) and almost destroyed. Then, a few years later, Tokaji region was a war zone during the First World War. At the end of WWI, when the Austro-Hungarian Empire fell apart, several new countries were created, Hungary was reduced to its current borders and lost a part of the Tokaji area.

 

The vineyards were further damaged during the Second World War. The final blow came at the end of the war when Hungary became part of the communist Soviet Union. 

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Tokaji Under Communism

Wine is part of culture, and reflects its values. Communism does not believe in individualism. On the contrary, everyone must be blended together by the massive wheels of the administration of the State. The target is a society based on common ownership of the means of production, without relying on social classes, money or individuals.

 

The effect of communism on the Tokaji region was dramatic. All vineyards were confiscated and nationalized to form giant farms, and the grapes were sold to State-run cooperatives who produced wine. All grapes were treated the same way, regardless of quality and variety, and all wines were flattened into bulk, inexpensive, unrefined wines that were exported by the State to East and Central Europe. 

 

The passion and soul so critical to wine-making was completely lost, no investments in the wineries, technologies or equipment were made, the quality of grapes deteriorated, old wine-making traditions were abandoned in favor of short term simple rough procedures, treating the vines as a resource that should be exploited instead of as an asset to invest in, and the wine was produced by a soulless mass production facility. 

 

Tokaji Reborn

When the communist period ended in 1989, private ownership of the vineyards was clarified and settled (some vineyards are very small units). Prominent wine figures and investors came to help in rebuilding this important wine region, with an emphasis on modern equipment and technologies. The hard work, the dedication and the uncompromising passion for quality are paying off and the region is in process of regaining a rightful place among the finest, most exquisite dessert wines of the world, as well as few of the best white wines of Hungary. 

 

Tokaji Grape Varieties

Tokaji is produced from three main grape varieties: Furmint (highly acidic thin-skinned, easily susceptible to Botrytis), Harslevelu (highly aromatic, highly acidic, floral, fruity) and Muskotaly (highly aromatic and highly acidic). Since the 1990s, the Zeta, Koverszolo and Kabar varieties may also be added.  When infected by Botrytis, the grapes lose their water content, resulting in wizened-looking grapes, with very high sugar content. The terroir is also very suitable for other varieties, and international varieties are grown in Tokaji very successfully. 

 

Production

Tokaji dessert wines are produced in techniques that have not changed for centuries. Harvest is late. The infected grapes are carefully hand-collected without breaking the delicate skin and then crushed to an “Aszu” paste. The non-infected grapes are fermented to produce a base wine. The Aszu paste is added to the base wine, for a period ranging from 8 to 36 hours, then the paste is removed and the wine remains for a second fermentation. Fermentation is very slow, and takes place in the labyrinth of narrow underground cold, damp cellars that are unique to the region. 

 

The wine is aged first in oak barrels and then in the bottle and is sold when it is ready to drink. The top quality Tokaji wines can age for up to 200 years, and an open bottle can remain open for months.  

 

Sugar Levels & Gold

Tokaji wines are measured by their sugar content, indicated in “Puttonyos” units (the traditional size of a basket), from 5 Puttonyos (up to 15% residual sugar) all the way to 9 Puttonyos (45% - 90% residual sugar) mind-blowing Tokaji Esszencia that is considered the rarest and most expensive, produced only in selected vintages only from infected grapes. 

 

Tokaji is sold in 500ml bottles, has golden to brown gold color and rich complex texture of elixir. The sweetness is perfectly balanced by the high acidity, and the aromas are concentrated and unforgettable honey, peaches and apricot. It is to be drunk slightly chilled, by itself, together with rich desserts or as the perfect companions to foie gras or blue cheese. Its alcohol level is very low.

  

Dry Tokaji

Since the 1990s, in parallel to the modern techniques introduced, and as consumers’ preferences have shifted towards dry wines, there are also excellent dry white wines that can be found in Tokaji. The fertile area is suitable for the local varieties as well as for international varieties (such as Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay). There can be found exceptional dry white varietal Furmint wines (acidic, mineral, fruity aromas like peach and apricot, sometimes creamy and roasted nuts) as well as excellent blends.

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