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Rioja - Power of Aging  

The first Spanish wine region awarded with the highest denomination of DOCa (Denominación de Origen Calificada), with a long wine production tradition, philosophy and pride. Traveling in ancient roads along the Ebro River, on routes worn by soles of millions of pilgrims, passing through villages, fantastic wine-cellars with unique architecture surrounded by endless vineyards, enjoying delicious local meals made of fresh local produce and excellent red wine. Welcome to Rioja!

Pilgrimage History and Present

Rioja has been one of Spain’s most important wine regions for thousands of years, and, like many wine regions, has a fascinating wine-story to tell. One of the most important European pilgrim routes, the “Camino Frances” passes through Rioja. From the Middle Ages to our days, the pilgrims walking by foot from all over Europe on a spiritual journey to Santiago de Compostela, are passing through the area, stopping overnight in the villages to rest, heal sore feet, get fresh supplies, exchange stories and information and share experiences - over glasses of red Rioja wine. 

Location, Topography, Climate

Rioja is an autonomous community located in the northern part of Spain, close to France, slightly closer to the Mediterranean than to the Atlantic Ocean. The area is an elevated plateau, higher in the north-west and sloping down in the southeast. The Ebro River flows through the area on its journey to the Mediterranean, supplying fertile soils (clay, limestone, sandstone, iron clay), freshwater, and moderating the climate. 

Phylloxera and Wars

The proximity to France strengthened the relationship and influence until at some point Rioja became known as “Spain’s Bordeaux”. Between 1850 - 1901, when the French wine industry suffered tremendously from parasitic fungus followed by the phylloxera insect widespread catastrophic attack on the roots of the vines - French wine producers and “negociants” came to Rioja for grapes and for wines and the area prospered dramatically. Unfortunately, the phylloxera insects found their way to Rioja, attacked the vines just as vigorously, and destroyed 70% of the vineyards. 

At the turn of the 20th century, the solution for the phylloxera problem was found, Bordeaux farmers returned to France to re-establish their vineyards and resume wine production. Unfortunately for Rioja and for the rest of Spain, the situation became worse as a result of a sequence of major events: the First World War, the Spanish Civil War, the Great Depression and the Second World War. The financial instability that followed continued until the 1980’s, when investors returned.

Long Ageing in Oak

The practice of oak ageing in oak barrels started about 250 years ago, when a local wine producer tried ageing his wine in large French oak casks. The influence of the oak on the wine was exceptional, and the practice spread across the region. Over time, to increase oak influence, the barrels became smaller and the costs went up. To reduce cost - the producers started to import American Oak and to make barrels locally. Ageing in American Oak and domestic-made barrels instead of French was not only more economical but also enabled a much longer ageing period.

 

Long ageing has become the region’s unique signature over the past century. Indeed, Rioja wines are aged longer than any other wines in the world, first in oak and later in the bottles. In most other regions, the wine is aged 1-2 years in oak, sold, and continues to age in bottles at the buyer’s place.

Rioja probably has the highest barrels ratio to volume of wine produced and aged. This situation is currently changing as part of ongoing evolution. While the traditional way is to age the wine for a very long period in American oak (typically used barrels), the “modernists” are using French oak barrels (typically new), for a dramatic effect and a shorter ageing time. It is very interesting to compare the effect of the different methods of barrels ageing on the resulting wines because they are made from the same varieties.

The "Enabling Full Expression" Philosophy

Philosophically speaking, a producer “releases” the wine to the buyer at a certain point (depending, for example, on various considerations related to storage space and economical needs), and it is up to the buyer to decide when to open the bottle. In effect, the buyer controls how long the wine will continue to age in the bottle, thus influencing the resulting wine. 

The wine-making philosophy of Rioja is that the role of the producer is to enable the wine to reach its full expression “all the way”. The importance of oak and ageing is major.  Rioja wines are not only aged in oak between 3 to 6 years, but they are bottled and continue to rest in the “bodega” (the local name for winery) for as long as it takes until the producer believes it is the right time to “release” them.

In previous years this could take 15 - 20 years, and there was even an exceptional case where the “right time” arrived after 40 years. Although ageing times have shortened, still, Rioja wines are sold when the producer thinks that they are ready to drink.

Sub-Regions of Rioja

Rioja is divided into 3 sub-regions, with different wine quality. The best wines are produced from grapes of Rioja Alta (red fruits, light, mellow, earthy medium acidity, strawberry, with vanilla flavors and light color wines) and from the grapes of Rioja Alavesa in the north-west part where the climate is continental (higher acidity, red fruits, fuller body, light color wines). The climate in the third sub-region, Rioja Oriental (Previously Rioja Baja = low Rioja) in the south-east part is closer to the Mediterranean, with hot dry summers, resulting in less acidic, deep-colored and higher alcohol wines.

Classification

Rioja wines are mostly red, classified according to their barrel time: Crianza (minimum of 2 calendar years ageing including at least one year in oak), Reserva (a minimum of 36 months ageing including at least one year in oak) and Gran Reserva (at least 24 months in oak plus at least 36 months in bottles).

Rioja also has excellent rose wines, with minimum requirements of oak ageing. For Reserva rose, the minimal requirement is at least 24 months total aging. The Gran Reserva rose is required to age at least 48 months (and minimum 6 months in oak)..

 

Generally speaking, wines aged in American Oak are typically mellow, light, with coconut, vanilla and sweet spices flavor. Wines aged in French oak are bold, dramatic and expressive with coffee, dark chocolate and spices flavors. Some producers divide the ageing period between American and French Oak barrels.

 

Varieties & Wines 

90% of productions are red wines, with Tempranillo as the major grape, varietal or blended. Typically, blends include in addition Garnacha (Grenache) and Mazuelo. It is allowed to include international varieties to create wines with a higher international appeal, but their share remain be minimal.

 

Some of the top rose wines in the world are produced with the "red grape" wines of Rioja.

#Spain #Wine #Rioja

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Rioja cellar
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