Rhone - Untamed & Diverse
Steep slopes covered with tightly clinging vines in the northern part, wide flat rocky areas in the sunny southern part - two completely different areas connected by one river - the Rhone. The Rhone Valley stretches in southeastern France from Cote Rotie in the north to Marseille area on the Mediterranean coast. The river passes through different terrains, soils, foods, traditions, landscapes, micro-climates and villages. The Rhone unites this mosaic into a very interesting spectrum of wines. Welcome to the Rhone!
North Rhone Topography & Climate
The sight of vines barely clinging onto the narrow terraces in the extreme edge of northern Rhone is breathtaking. The slopes are incredibly steep, and the soils are so visibly poor that one is immediately thankful for the stones that support the terraces, and wonders how deep must the roots of these vines be to prevent the vines from sliding down. Indeed, it is quite common to see the growers climb up the stone terraces and the slopes carrying buckets of soil that has washed down.
The weather in northern Rhone is continental, harsh, wet and cold in winter, and hot in summer. To make it even more challenging, Rhone is the route of “Le Mistral” (as the French call it), a cold, razor-sharp wind that comes from the Alps, gathering speed as it cuts along the slopes and continues through the valley down to the Mediterranean coast. Definitely, vine growing in the northern Rhone area requires persistence and strength of character.
North Rhone Wines & Wineries
Luckily for all wine-lovers, the growers and wine producers in the northern Rhone have plenty of these qualities. Luckily, even more, the Syrah variety has originated in this area and the vines seem to believe that it is the natural way for vines to grow. Clearly, persistence is rewarded by excellence.
Syrah is the dominant grape in northern Rhone, and almost all wines produced in Cote Rotie, Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage and the neighboring villages, are red, 100% Syrah. The grapes are small, black with thick skins and medium/high tannin. Often, the stems are left with the skins during fermentation, to intensify the flavors. The wines are intense, dramatic, and can age very well.
As you drink Syrah from in northern Rhone, you experience an explosion of dark flavors of raw meat, smoke, forest, leather, black plums, blackberries, olives, all spiced up with white pepper. These wines reflect their terroir, and are perfect with local foods and, of course, local fromages.
There are a few whites produced in northern Rhone, mostly from Viognier (varietal, aromatic, honeysuckle, peach, lychee, fresh oranges, low acidity, sensitive, unstable quality of vintages). There are also great blends of Marsanne and Roussanne. But although it is possible to find some exceptional whites, the star of northern Rhone is Syrah.
Many wines in northern Rhone are produced by family wineries, small and medium, as well as by cooperatives and negociants, who buy, blend, bottle and sell the wines under their own labels.
South Rhone Topography & Climate
Travelling along the river to southern Rhone, the slopes become softer, the valley opens widely to become a plateau, and the climate warms up into Mediterranean climate.
The main cities in southern Rhone are Orange and Avignon. It is especially enjoyable to visit Avignon, with its impressive Roman Catholic churches and architecture, pleasant boulevards, lively cafes, restaurants serving delicacies, tempting boulangeries, and watch the rivers flowing under the bridges.
The vineyards grow on smooth, rolled pebbles and on rock beds (“galets” in French), the riverbed of the Rhone in earlier days, with some clay, sandy limestone and gravel underneath the stones and rocks. The stones and the rock retain the heat of the sun and increase the warmth reflected on the vines, yet at the same time, they protect the ground from drying up keeping some moisture.
South Rhone - Châteauneuf-du-Pape
One of the most interesting wines is produced in a small village between Orange and Avignon: Chateauneuf-du-Pape. The name means “the new chateau of the Pope”, referring to a French Pope who settled in this area in the 15th century (instead of Rome) and to his successors who established Avignon as a favorite summer place. Actually, the name Chateauneuf-du-Pape is a 20th century, perhaps slightly “commercially oriented” name. The wine itself, though, is timeless.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a blend that can be made with up to 13 (red and white). The main grape is Grenache, grown to sweet ripeness, almost “jammy” taste. Other main varieties added are Syrah, Mourvedre and Cinsault. To keep the concentrated taste of grapes, the yields are strictly controlled.
The wine is bold, masculine, with aromas of leather, game, earth, stone, perhaps even tar. Sometimes it is possible to taste the pebbles echoing in the wine. This wine is certainly not the typical soft, round, red wines that one would expect to find in warmer climates.
South Rhone Blends
The majority of wine produced in the Southern Rhone are red blends that are sold on a large scale under the appellations Cotes du Rhone Village (the higher appellation) and Cotes du Rhone (the lower one). Although usually dominated by Grenache, the trio - Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre - is so popular that it has become globally known as “GSM”. The quality of the red blends varies, and some of them are very enjoyable, giving an excellent value for money. Cotes du Rhone wines can be red, rose and white.
The first appellation of rose wine in France is Tavel, a special rose produced from up to nine grapes, red and white that is worth attention. Typically the grapes are put in a single tank so that the color and flavors interact to produce a dry rose with a beautiful pink color. The bold, untamed character typical of the top red wines of the Rhone is expressed also in Tavel - spicy with red berries flavors. Tavel is the perfect rose to accompany Mediterranean dishes of southern France, and the perfect rose for summertime.
Finally, for dessert, we like the Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, a relatively rare fortified honey-gold “natural” sweet wine (VDN - the wine is fortified with neutral grape spirit so that there remains sugar), with aromas of apricot, orange, and tropical fruits, often drunk as an aperitif.
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