Eger - Red Bull & White Star
Eger wine region is located in the north-eastern part of Hungary, at the foothills of the Bükk Mountains. The capital of the region is Eger, with its bright colorful houses and red roofs, delicious restaurants and rich history. Eger’s history is entwined with the history of the wine region, and the most fascinating chapter is being written now in red and in white, as the promise of the region is being realized. Welcome to Eger!
Soil & Climate
The soils are mixed, including some soils of volcanic origin. The climate is relatively cool temperate continental, with long cold (sometimes very rainy) winters and warm sunny summers that allow the acidity to develop and the grapes to ripen. The nearby mountains protect the region from cold northern winds.
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History
The Magyar tribes settled in the area in the 9th century, having traveled thousands of kilometers from the Ural Mountains, deep in Russia, bordering Asia. The Magyars brought not only their culture and tradition but also their language. Being farmers, they cultivated vines as part of their agricultural activities, just as their Hungarian descendants continue to do to our days.
In parallel, the influence of the catholic church was spreading across Europe. Viniculture was an important activity of the monks because wine was needed for ceremonial purposes, as well as a significant source of income of the monastery. The vineyards expanded even further.
Its central location, temperate continental climate and fertile lands have drawn to Hungary numerous peaceful immigration waves as well as military invasions over the centuries, Christian, Muslim and Heathen.
Over time, the local wine production evolved, influenced by immigrants and invaders alike. Barrels replaced animal skins for wine storing and aging, fermentation technologies were introduced and experimented with, and new grape varieties were cultivated and blended with native varieties.
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Wine cellars were dug to keep the wine tithes donated to church from becoming bad and undrinkable. Later, during the invasions of the Turks (who, as Muslims, do not drink alcohol), the wine cellars were connected into an underground labyrinth of cellars that were used initially for hiding, and in more peaceful times - for aging and storing wines.
Phylloxera, Wars & Communist Regime
At the turn of the 19th century into the 20th, like in most of Europe, the vineyards were attacked by the phylloxera insects and almost destroyed. Then, a few years later, the vineyards were damaged during the First World War and again during the Second World War. The final blow came at the end of the war, when Hungary became part of the communist Soviet Union.
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Generally speaking, a communist society is based on common ownership of the means of production, without relying on social classes, money or individuals. Communism does not believe in individualism. Everyone needs to be blended together into a big masse by the massive wheels of the administration of the state.
Wine is part of culture, and reflects its values. The effect of communism on Hungarian viniculture was dramatic, and Eger was no exception. The vineyards were nationalized into giant farms, and the grapes were sold to state-run cooperatives that produced wine. All grapes were treated the same way, regardless of quality or variety, and the wines were blended, and "flattened" into bulk, inexpensive, unrefined wines that were exported by the state to East and Central Europe.
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The passion and soul so critical to wine-making were completely lost, cultivation deteriorated, no investments wineries, technologies or equipment were made, the quality of grapes deteriorated, old wine-making traditions were abandoned in favor of short term simple rough processes, treating the vines as a resource that should be exploited rather than as an asset to invest in, and the wine was produced by a soulless mass production facility.
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Modern Wines Revival
When the communist period ended in 1989, the vineyards were privatized into small and mid-sized wineries, as part of the process of recovery and redefinition of the wine region, with an emphasis on quality.
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Eger Wines
The most famous wine of Eger is the Egri Bikaver, a red blend called the “Bull’s Blood of Eger”. The legend is that the wine received its name after a Turk attack on Eger castle 500 years ago, when the defenders (men, women and children) of the castle, fought fiercely to push the invaders away, and their clothes and their faces were covered with the red wine that they had been drinking to give them courage and energy. When the Turks saw the red stains, they believed that the Eger warriors were drinking the blood of bulls to make them fierce - and retreated. Actually, the wine itself appeared 200 years after the Turks’ attack, but why spoil a good story, especially as this is probably the only case in history where wine had won a battle.
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Egri Bikaver: Varieties, Flavors & Styles
Egri Bikaver is an elegant wine, typically a blend, that may change from year to year and from winery to winery. The primary variety is Kekfrankos (mineral, wild berries, black cherry) which gives the wine its refined elegance and complexity, the secondary is Kadarka (originally brought by the Serbs, light red, medium body, slightly spicy), and at least 2 more varieties from a long list of native and international wines growing in Eger.
Regardless of the blend, the wine has an identifiable character, spicy, fruity, full-bodied with some acidity and tannins. It is produced in three styles: Classic (at least 4 varieties, 6 months in oak), Superior (at least 5 varieties, 12 months in oak) and Grand Superior (varietal, 12 months in oak).
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Eger White Wines
Although the most famous wine is the red Egri Bikaver, the region does not have a red identity. Initially, like other Hungarian wine regions, it was known for its white wines, and to our days approximately 50% of the grapes are white.
Egri Csillag
The process of the re-definition and of the modern evolution of the Eger wines, red and white, is fascinating, as the producers rely more and more on the local varieties, native to Eger and to Hungary and more importantly - are creating new wines.
Egri Csillag, a new white blend of local varieties, was created recently.
The symbolic name means “Egri’s Star”, inspired by the legend about the watchman who stood guard every night, lighting torches to signal the safe route for travelers at night during the turbulent times of the Turks invasion.
Egri Csillag is a relatively “flexible" blend”. The producer has freedom in selecting the varieties of the blend. The requirement is that the blend must include a majority of local grapes, that are at least 4 varieties found in a long list of local grapes,. Both oak ageing and stainless steel ageing are permitted. The style differs from one winery to another, as each tries to better capture and express the terroir and quality may vary.
Yet, the Egri Csillag has an identifiable elegant character that is fruity, floral, balanced, dry and crisp, acidic, with some minerality.
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Eger Emerging Star
In summary, during the 15-20 years, the efforts of the producers in the region are bearing fruit and the Eger wine region is an emerging star. The wines produced, red and white, are increasingly reflecting their terroir with a distinct Hungarian identity.
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