If France is the kingdom of wine, Champagne is the Princess of light, romance and elegance. With nearly impossible weather conditions, a complex production process and exceptional branding, Champagne transformed from simple flat wines into the "bubbly" symbol of romance, luxury, elegance, victory and a legendary concept. Let’s raise an elegant crystal flute to celebrate the most famous sparkling wine in the world. Welcome to Champagne!

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Location & Climate

Champagne can be produced only in Champagne, France, a relatively small area consisting of over 30,000 hectares. The area is located just northeast of Paris, on the main trade routes connecting Benelux with Switzerland and connecting Paris with Germany. The main cities and villages are: Reims, Epernay and Ay.

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The Champagne region is cold, rainy, windy, frosty and damp. Almost unsuitable for vineyards to grow and for grapes to ripen. The average temperature of 11 - 12 degrees is just barely sufficient for photosynthesis and there is very little sugar for the yeast to develop. Summers are wet and rainy, although the sun makes an occasional appearance.   

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The soils are chalky, soft, porous, white limestone rich in fossils remaining from the ancient sea that once covered the area. The vineyards are trained to grow low to absorb warmth from the ground and the soft soils allow their roots to grow deep and reach the groundwater underneath. Although rich in minerals, the soils are low in nutrients, fertilizers must be applied and the maximal yield is limited for sustainability.

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Unique Characteristics

The story of transformation from a wine into a concept and a symbol of love, romance, elegance and victories is fascinating. 

 

Champagne region has several assets that, with optimal use and a lot of persistence - elevated it to its premium position. The first, are the soils and the topography. Another other important asset of Champagne region are its people and, the adjustments that they have done over the years.

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There is only one appellation - Champagne AOC. The luxurious wines can be vintage or non-vintage (multi-vintage) without affecting their popularity or losing any market value. Champagne is also one of the most imitated wines (though none of the imitations is as good as the original).

 

History

Vineyards have been growing in the area for 2,000 years. As in most European wine regions, the first main cultivators were the Ancient Romans who also engineered the “Crayers”, the deep underground cellars, where a lot of wines are still aged. No visit in Champagne is complete without walking in the dark silent labyrinths stretching endlessly underground.

 

Following the fall of the Roman Empire, viticulture continued by the monks and the church - for religious purposes and for economical reasons as a good source of income, and later also by nobility as a countryside activity. 

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The strategic location of the area on major trade routes, close to Paris, contributed to prosperity in peaceful times and to destruction during war times, as this was the major defense line protecting Paris from the east. 

 

The history of Champagne is entwined with the history of Reims and of French royalty. The Cathedral of Reims was the coronation venue of French kings for 1,000 years, and still is a major religious center. It is also the location of the famous Champagne Houses (“Maisons”) of the merchants, that supplied Champagne to the aristocracy and royalty through the centuries. 

 

Producing Champagne

Champagne is produced in a complex process that evolved over time. the process is strictly self-regulated and closely protected. The grapes are harvested and immediately pressed in the vineyard, to minimize skin contact. Each lot is fermented separately, producing a highly acidic low alcohol wine that is called “base wine''. Each producer keeps hundreds, if not thousands, of “base wines” and can use them to maintain the consistent taste of his wine and to compensate for lost yields due to harsh weather conditions.

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The next step is the “Assemblage”, namely, blending “base wines” from different vintages, lots, areas and varieties (always from the Champagne area), adding yeast, wine and sugar (the “Liqueur de Tirage”) to enable the second fermentation, and to create the particular desired Champagne flavor. This is a highly skilled art, because the expert has to blend hundreds of “base wines” imagining the unique taste, look and smell years later, when the bottle is opened. The target is to recreate the same taste, look and smell of the champagnes produced previously by the same producer. The blend is bottled, capped with a crown top, to start the second fermentation. 

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The second fermentation lasts for a few weeks, creating high pressure in the bottle (6 atmospheres) and bubbles of CO2. Following the second fermentation, the bottles remain “sur lie” for at least 12 months (in non-vintage) up to 10 years (vintage), undergoing an autolysis process, intensified by the high pressure inside the bottle. During the maturation period, the flavors are released from the disintegration of the yeast creating the complex bready, biscuit, creamy taste so associated with Champagne, without losing the unique acidity. The maturation must last at least 15 months from “tirage” to sale of the bottle for non-vintage champagne, and at least 36 months for vintage champagne, with no maximum.

 

Following the maturation period, the liquid is cloudy and the producer must remove yeast from the bottle, in a process called “Riddling” (“Remuage”). This is done by gradually and slowly rotating the bottles upside down until all yeasts are collected in the neck of the bottle. Next, the bottles are frozen, the cap is removed and the yeasts shoot out leaving behind a clear sparkling golden creamy yet acidic liquid with the unique bready, biscuit complex flavors.

 

Finally, the producer adds liquid to fill the space (the “Dosage” or “Liqueur de Dosage”). At this time it is possible to add sugar (or not) depending on the desired sweetness and acidity levels of the final product, and the bottle is corked with the famous caged cork. 

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From Devil's Wine to Sparkling Premium

Initially, the wines were not intended as sparkling wines. At the end of the fermentation (today called the “first fermentation”), there remained sugar and dormant yeast in the liquid. The still wines (now called “base wines”) were bottled, however in spring time, when temperatures warmed, the yeast naturally began a second fermentation in the bottles, high pressure was created in the corked bottles and most of them exploded. The wine became known as “the devil’s wine” and the bubbles were considered faulty. In the 17th century, a priest called Dom Perignon, who was responsible for wine production in his abbey, received a task to get rid of the bubbles. Although this task was not achieved, his expertise in advanced wine production techniques transformed his abbey in Reims into a leading viticulture center, improving wine quality, and his name is associated until this day with premium champagne.  

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Ironically, the English were delighted by the same bubbles that annoyed the French producers, and it were the English who had a major contribution to the solution. In the 17th century an English scientist invented the currently called  “Method Champenoise”, and English glassmakers started to create stronger, more durable bottles. Gradually, as the glass became stronger, combined with the positivity of English aristocracy towards the bubbles, the wines gained popularity with French aristocracy. Yet, it took until the beginning of the 19th century for the glass to become sufficiently strong to contain the extra pressure resulting from the second fermentation and for the bottles to become less explosive. Eventually, the French producers started to use the “Method Champenoise” and realized that they had a sparkling treasure. 

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Protecting the Appellation

Unfortunately, during the second half of the 19th century into the first three decades of the 20th century, the Russian Empire (a major market) collapsed, Phylloxera destroyed most of the vines, the First World War turned the area into a battlefield and German producers started to make and sell sparkling wines called "champagne". The producers in the Champagne region understood the value of strong branding and the power in unity. Together, they set a geographic definition of the area and formed a strict set of rules and regulations for champagne production. Then, the local producers and "negociants" joined forces to systematically enforce their rights against all infringers and imitators, and dramatically increased the value of the appellation.

 

Today, only wines coming from the defined area of Champagne and are produced under the strict regulations may carry the prestigious label "Champagne". When other sparkling wines are produced in the same method, they can only be referred to as “Traditional Method” or “Classic Method”. 

   

Champagne Classifications & Varieties

The small region of Champagne is divided into 14 sub-regions. The most famous are:  Montagne de Reims, Côtes des Blancs, Vallée de la Marne, Côte de Sézanne and Côte de Bar. Within the AOC there are 2 classification: “aire délimitée” (grapes from the entire region) and the “aire production” (grapes exclusively from particular parcels). There is an ongoing process to determine if more lands can be brought under the appellation.

 

There are 17 villages defined as “Grand Cru” and 44 villages defined as “Premier Cru”. Wine produced elsewhere is simply referred to as “Cru”.  The classifications covering entire villages and varieties are reflected in the prices and market value.

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The self-imposed rules are very strict. Champagne is mainly produced from three main grapes: Chardonnay (zesty, acidic, citrus, green), Pinot Noir (adding texture, aroma, structure, depth, fruitiness and elegance) and Pinot Meunier (less susceptible to frost, fresh, fruity). Champagne can be produced from any combination of these varieties and few others that are much less popular. Pruning can only be done in either one of 4 permitted methods, harvest must be by hand and start on a set date, minimum potential alcohol quantity is set, and finally, there is a permitted amount of wine that can be kept in reserve each year. Prices, however, are no longer regulated. 

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Grand Cru can only be produced from grapes from the 17 Grand Cru villages. Premier Cru is produced only from the 17 Grand Cru and 44 Premier Cru villages. In addition there are Non-Vintage (NV) (multiple vintages), Vintage (only from one vintage year), Rose, Blanc de Blancs (100% white, typically Chardonnay), Blanc de Noirs (only red grapes, less popular) and Prestige Cuvee (typically the best grapes of the producer). Additionally, some Houses also have their own permitted labels. 

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Growers and Negociants

There are over 15,000 growers (owning most of the vineyards), 100 cooperatives and 300 Houses (negociants/merchants who buy the grapes and produce the wines under their names,  also called “Maisons” in French), who are responsible for most of the export sales. In recent years, there is a growing trend of growers producing champagne from their own grapes, instead of selling them to the merchants and the role of the cooperatives in this trend is significant. These wines are typically sold in the local market. Many of these wines are very interesting, as they reflect their specific terroir, the grower’s wine making skills and are challenging to produce. 

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Champagne Styles & Colors

Champagne is mostly golden. Additionally, there are: “Blanc de Blancs” (white of whites) that is produced from 100% Chardonnay, crystal colored tasting pure, lacy, crisp, mineral and full of finesse. Rose champagne (“pink champagne”) is more expensive and rare, rich, full bodied, fruity with mineral/earthy flavors. The pink color comes either from maceration or from adding a dosage of red wine at the end of the maturation process, and can vary from year to year. The “Blanc de Noirs is golden with a hint of pink. Finally, it is also possible to find still light pinkish wines made from pinot noir but these are less popular. 

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Champagne is low in alcohol: 12.5%. It is both acidic and creamy at the same time. The flavors are: acidic, green fruit, citrus (apple, lemon) and autolytic notes (biscuit, bread, toast). Vintage champagnes are typically with intense fruity and autolytic flavors with vegetal, nutty or honeyed complexity. Over the past 100 years, champagne gradually becomes less sweet, the amount of sugar in the dosage is reduced or even eliminated, in response to market preferences. The sweetness/dryness level ranges from Sweet, Demi-Sec, Sec, Extra Dry, Brut, Extra Brut to Brut Nature (called also Pas Dose or Zero Dosage), which are increasingly more popular.  

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Uncorking & Serving

The rules related to Champagne extend to the uncorking and to serving. The bottle can be uncorked gently, using a technique, resulting in a light dry “puff” whisper (some would say a gentle sigh of a woman), then poured slowly into a slightly tilted (to avoid the "mousse") glass called "flute", that is elegant, long lined, slightly wide, sophisticated glass that demonstrates the purity of color and best expresses the aroma. In the flute, the bubbles will form a stream of tiny bobbles, spiraling and swelling from different spots as they rise delicately. Champagne is served well chilled, at 7-9 degrees, positioned in a bucket full of ice. One can almost imagine the violins or the harp in the background. 

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By sharp contrast, when opened to celebrate a  victory, champagne is sprayed all over, on as many people as possible, or drank from an over-flowing trophy. When Launching a new vessel, the bottle can be crushed against the vessel, just before its maiden voyage.

 

Yet, perhaps the most dramatic way to open champagne is called "Sabrage", by "saber"-slicing the top part of the bottle neck away with one well aimed coup.

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A Triumphing Concept

Champagne is a premium wine, refined and elegant, that has a fascinating story of transformation: from cloudy to transparent, from flat to bubbly, from sweet to very dry, and from wine to a concept. It is the triumph of perseverance and branding. Initially used in the coronation of French kings, champagne maintained its image as a royal and aristocratic drink, yet the image expanded to celebrations (whether political victories, leisure activities or championships) that are mostly masculine. At the same time, the light, pure, bubbly nature of champagne, and its low alcohol level, enabled its marketing as a feminine favorite wine, symbolizing love, romance and marriage.