Bairrada DOC is one of the top dry red wines of Portugal today. Produced from grapes growing alongside the coast of the Atlantic Ocean, south of the city of Oporto ("Port"). The vineyards are dominated by Baga, the local "king" of grapes that, in turn, reflects and expresses its terroir. Did the great explorers toast this wine when discovering a new land? A new maritime passage? Bringing exotic gifts for their king and queen? When we drink the red wines of Bairrada, we taste the echoes of the tales of great explorers, and of their loved ones on the coast searching for a white sail on the horizon. Welcome to Bairrada!

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Topography, Soil & Climate

The landscape consists of gentle soft hills, flat plains and fertile valleys, farming lands and agricultural farms, picturesque villages, where traditions are respected and thriving.

 

The soils are free-draining mineral-rich, mostly limestone and clay (that gave the region its name, as “barra” means “clay” in Portuguese).

 

The climate is temperate maritime Atlantic, humid and rainy. The effect of the Atlantic is moderating, keeping temperature variations minimal. The winters are damp and, although summers are warm (even hot), there is often rain in spring and in autumn. 

 

History & Wine

Until the 10th century, the region was occupied by the Moors, who, being Muslim, did not cultivate (nor encourage the cultivation of) vineyards. In the following centuries, the persistence of the Christians prevailed, the Moors were gradually pushed back from the Iberic Peninsula and the area became Christian. Like in many other parts of Europe, the church developed viniculture because wine is an important part of religious ceremonies as well as a significant source of income for the church.  

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Gradually, as the commercial influence of the Portuguese maritime empire expanded, so did the popularity of its wines. The excellent trade relations with England as well the huge popularity of Portuguese wines (especially Port, but not only) in the UK, the Netherlands and in North America, increased the demand for red wines. Unfortunately, to satisfy the demand, often quantity was considered over quality and the wines were simple.  

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Baga Quality Evolution

Bairrada is mainly famous for one variety - Baga. The combination of the moderate rainy climate with the fertile free draining mineral soils and with the variety’s characteristics and the economic situation of Portugal between the 18th century and the 1980s, resulted in looking favorably at high yields of grapes. Typically, the grapes were sold to negociants and large cooperatives that produced bulk wines, and while the area received its DOC in the 1980s, the wines were good but unexciting.

 

In recent years, there is an exciting evolution in the region, as growers became more quality oriented, believe in the uniqueness of the grapes and focus on the grapes. They started to explore and experiment how to best express the qualities of the Baga grape.

 

High yields are intentionally reduced, targeting small quantities of higher quality grapes. High tannins are tamed and softened by oak ageing and blends up to 15% of other varieties are considered. Many growers reduced (or even stopped) selling grapes to the large commercial buyers, and are producing wines that are either varietal or blended.

 

The modern Baga wines were received enthusiastically, more than justifying the belief of these pioneers in the variety, and causing even more wineries to join the evolution for high-quality Bairrada DOC wines. 

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Grape Flavors

Baga grapes are small with thick skins. Wines produced from Baga have the deep color one would expect from thick skins’ grapes in warm climates and, of course, intensity and high tannins coming from the skins and from the stems. Yet, as harvest is late and as sometimes summer and autumn are too windy, rainy and cloudy with insufficient sunshine and warmth to fully ripen the grapes, the wines produced may differ depending on the vintage. It allows the wine lover a fascinating opportunity to compare similar yet intriguingly different wines from the same grape variety in the same winery from different vintages. 

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When the grapes are harvested before reaching complete ripeness, the wines have characteristics typically associated with varieties from colder climates (for example Pinot Noir) like high acidity and flavors of green bell pepper and cassis, with added complexity from the high tannins. These grapes might also be suitable for sparkling wines. 

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When Baga grapes are fully ripened the wines will be rich, dense, structured, aromatic and fruity. The high tannins and high acidity give the wine complexity and character. 

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Other Varieties

While the absolute dominant "king" grape is Baga, there are several other red varieties used in blends (local and French). The main red varieties are in addition to Baga are Touriga Nacional (the local variety), as well as  Merlot, Syrah, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon.

 

In blends, Baga is usually blended with Touriga Nacional, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. 

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White & Sparkling Wines

There are also dry white wines produced, and their flavors can range from citrus to floral, salty/mineral, creamy and intense, depending on the blends and varieties used. The white wines are acidic and fresh. Mostly, the white wines are not oaked. When aged in oak, the flavors are intensified.

 

The main white varieties are the local Arinto, Bical (nicknamed Borrado das Moscaos, ages well), Cercial, Sercialinho, Fernão Pires (Maria Gomes) and the French Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

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Finally, there are dry sparkling white, pink or red produced in the traditional method, typically mineral and highly acidic, with “green” and black fruits flavors (when the wine is red or pink) or floral, citrus, creamy and complex (when the wine is white).    

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